We loaded the Revel van with camera gear and aimed for the Black Rock Campground at Joshua Tree National Park (JTNP). Prior to this trip I could not recall the last time I saw the Milkyway. Using the app Photopills I intended to be snapping immages at 0230—the actual time became 0330. We were not disappointed. The sky was clear for the three nights we were at the camp. We learned JTNP is as much about rocks as it is about trees.
Left Coast Retrospective
The journey was the trip. We covered a total of 2,500 miles in 13 days. When we began, both of us had fading memories of visiting some of the locations along the coast. We planned to focus on spending time at several of the beaches, including Cannon Beach, in Oregon. We disovered others, most of which had few people. The slope of most beaches are shallow, producing turbulent surf—no surfers, no swimmers. Afternoon winds from the Northwest or West were high for the duration of the trip. Trees are permamently bent by such winds. We visited several lighthouses. Most were new to us.
The Left Coast Trip
The storms have passed, leaving some beaches reshaped and others gifted with driftwood and pieces of trees lining the coast. The drive on Highway 128 from the 101 to the coast is beautiful, with everything lush and green. Several wineries are on the route, making the drive worth repeating a few times. The destination was the coast, and the journey was its own reward.
Southern Utah Adventure
Mission
Tour Zion, Bryce and cram as much fun into the time as possible.
We departed on March 10, and returned on March 20. We drove through Valley of Fire State Park. The 1966 western, The Professionals, was filmed there over the course of 9 weeks. Kanab was a surprise despite being in the plan. During the 50’s and 60’s, Kanab was a popular location for filming westerns. Everyone we encountered endeavored to be friendly. I spoke a bit with the owner of a local camera store. On display were old film cameras, only old film cameras. The owner said he intended to specialize in only film cameras. A guy walked in and asked about SD cards for his digital camera—none were available.
Everywhere the Earth was red; iron oxide, a.k.a “rust.” Peekaboo Canyon was our first slot canyon.
At Horseshoe Bend, and the Bryce Canyon overlooks, there was little room to place a tripod as people were shoulder-to-shoulder. Kids were running off-leash.
I asked a Park Ranger if there are times with less attendance, “no, it’s really busy all year.”
Zion has a Scenic Canyon Drive that was in our plan; but it’s closed to personal cars from March to November. We entered the park at the East entrance and a few cars were in the small lot. The South entrance was another matter: hundreds of parking spots—all occupied.
Zion was crowded, Bryce not so much.
We brought our dog on this adventure. Both Zion and Bryce are dog-unfriendly. Drones are not allowed in either park.
Now, with time to reflect, in this trip we covered nearly two thousand miles in ten days with only a few as “rest and recharge” times.
High Points
Peekaboo Canyon, Utah and the quad ride to it
the River Rock Roasting Company in La Verkin, Utah—we ate three meals there in two days; great salads!
Horseshoe Bend
Sunset Point in Bryce (at an elevation of 8,000’
The Zion drive from the East entrance to the South Entrance
Lots of red dirt
Surprises
the Zionic Scenic Drive is open for personal cars only from December to February. Zion is one of most visited of the National Parks; millions per year.
Very friendly people in the Utah outdoorsy spots
The view of the “Amphitheater” at Bryce was captivating. The walk/hike down from the viewpoint was covered in ice; some were prepared with strap-on crampon spikes to navigate the ice, many were not.
Highway 15 on the California portion is in terrible condition.
A recommended pre-read prior to detailed planning:
Death Valley 13-15 November 2023
The map routing from home took us through Trona, an unincorporated area. The Searles Valley Minerals Company is operating and the nearby homes (walking distance to the plant) are in various states of disintegration. A few minutes with Wikipedia inspired more interest in the history of Trona. A look at Trona homes for sale on Realtor.com is fascinating. The drive was beautiful with visible changes in the vegetation through the valleys. There is evidence of recent flooding in many of the areas as we approached highway 190. Passing through the Searles Valley area without cellular coverage was an interesting experience. I appreciated the sobriety of no immediate access to emergency services that are otherwise readily accessible during most of our lives. Having a Garmin satellite communicator was reassuring.
Most of Death Valley’s attractions are open after the two month closure to work the flooded roads. Highway 190 remains closed South of Badwater Basin. Most of the 4WD roads remain closed.
Zabriskie Point, Golden Canyon, Artists Drive, the Devil’s Golf Course and Badwater Basin after Sunset were beautiful. We look forward to a repeat.
1-3 November, 2023, the Trona Pinnacles
The Trona Pinnacles are an otherworldly geological phenomenon located in the California Desert National Conservation Area. This remarkable landscape consists of more than 500 tufa spires, some as high as 140 feet, rising from the bed of the Searles Dry Lake basin. These spires are composed primarily of calcium carbonate (tufa) and were formed in an ancient lake during the Pleistocene era, as freshwater springs seeped up through the lake's alkaline waters to create this spectacular formation. The Pinnacles have served as the backdrop for many science fiction films and TV shows, due to their alien-like appearance, and are a magnet for photographers and nature enthusiasts. The area, accessible by dirt roads, reveals a history of climatic change and is a classic representation of the Earth's geological processes. Suggestions:
Bring plenty of water
Anticipate 5 miles of rough, sometimes sandy, dirt road
There is no cellular coverage; be careful. People do get stuck.
Don’t visit if it recently rained
The area can be busy on weekends
Visit on moonless nights for best star viewing
The Starlink system, and an Ecoflow River 2 and 220W solar panel worked perfectly! Kudos to Elon!
